Dyson DC24 Brush Bar Motor

So the brush bar (brush roll) on your Dyson DC24 isn’t turning? You are not alone. Before we suspect the worst, look to the front of the machine on the cleaner brush head. On the left side is a small button. This is a “reset” button. Power the machine on and off whilst pressing it a few times. Do the same with the small brush switch next to the main power switch.

Remember that the brush should only turn when the machine is reclined. It will not spin when the machine is standing upright.

The brush bar motors are prone to failure. This is a design fault in our opinion. The brush roll motors are not much good to be honest. They don’t tend to last very long. Dyson are replacing thousands of them under warranty. However, if your machine is out of warranty, or you don’t have the original receipt or were not the original purchaser, Dyson will charge you over £70 to turn out and correct their own design fault. Cute huh?

DC24 Problems

You can only buy a complete cleaner head from Dyson at the cost of £74.59. They do this for two reasons, firstly because to replace the motor is not an amateur job that those unfamiliar with electrical appliances should probably attempt. Second is that the brush bars themselves do tend to wear out quite quickly too. It saves them messing about if they sell you a complete clip on unit that solves all the likely problems your DC24 will have.

There are two electrical components in the cleaner head that can go wrong. The brushbar motor and the printed circuit board (the PCB). Experience has taught us that although the PCB’s in the DC24 do burn out occasionally, 99.9% of the time the brush bar motor is to blame.

To be sure, you can strip the head unit down, remove the motor, observe the low voltage it takes, and bench test it. Yup, likely it is dead as a doornail.

You now want to find somewhere that will sell you a DC24 brushbar motor on its own. The problem with this is that Dyson are extremely slow at supplying these units to the trade. Even the large trade-only distributors have a typical three month back order on these motors. However, from time to time some of the Dyson specialists are able to get some. Some buy every unit available at a cost of many thousands of pounds to be able to service their clients in the coming months until Dyson finish yawning and supply some more.

Dyson are prone to keep certain fast moving parts high in price and to keep demand high by throttling the after-market supply to a trickle. They prefer you buy a new machine than repair one that is out of warranty (unless you are paying them to fix it). So, if you insist on repairing it, they will do what they can to monetise this by making sure you are over-charged for the part. Expect to pay over £40 + shipping for one of these little motors. Here’s what they look like:

DC24 Brush bar motor

Thinking of buying one from eBay? Be aware that eBay and their connected obligatory payment company Paypal, between them charge hapless sellers up to an eye-watering 17% in fees and costs to sell on their platform. Savvy buyers still buy direct from the same eBay seller, but save themselves a few pounds in the process by buying direct and saving the seller the greedy eBay/Paypal fees. This means you save money by buying direct!

So now you want to know where to get one from don’t you? The place that usually has them in stock is Manchester Vacs (who allowed us to use their pictures on this article).

You can get straight to the page they are listed on here: Dyson DC24 Brush Bar Motor

You will also need a T10 and a T8 Torx drive screwdriver to strip the unit down. You can get one of those from the same page.

You can learn how to strip the unit down here: Replacing a Dyson DC24 Brush Bar Motor

58 Responses to “Dyson DC24 Brush Bar Motor”

  1. DC21 Dyson powerhead cuts out randomly.
    No clogs, checked and cleaned all lines
    Cleaned filter
    Free running beater brushes,bushings etc, dismantled and cleaned
    Will restart and run normally when red button is reset.
    If left to run without motion from the wand, will run indefinitely.
    Tried by passing ( jumping ) thermal cutout switch. Wouldn’t run at all. Restored to normal configuration and symptoms remained the same as prior to jumping.
    Suspect poor connection somewhere in the wand.
    Cleaned both male and female contacts at powerhead/ wand interface.
    Vacuuming motion sets off the random motorhead cut outs. Sometimes can vacuum for minutes without problems, then random cuts outs up to every few seconds.
    My final thoughts- either malfunctioning thermal cut out switch or poor connection in wand or pcb issue.
    Where to from here please?
    The motor itself is functioning normally. Brushes/ armature in good condition.
    Thanks or your expertise,

    Walter

  2. Hi walter.
    Did you ever solve your issue. I have exactly the same problem to a T. Brush bar spins when it feels like it, seems to be getting worse.
    Thanks
    Tom

  3. The wiring loom from dc24 brushbar head connector to pcb has failed ,open circuit.Can you replace this connector. Ive bypassed this connector and brushbar head works. or can i buy the male pins and just push them into the yoke

  4. Here is some feedback, correspondence via e-mail to Manchester Vacs regarding replacing a DC24 brush motor. Highly recommend them, not often these days to find a company with a conscious & 1st class service. 🙂
    ———————————————————————-
    Hi, received the order below no problems with delivery, new brush motor fitted, all back up on running. Will leave +++++ feed back on your site.

    Great service & advice on your web site, was a bit dubious about the +300V DC, I was expecting 240V AC when I was doing my initial determination of electric feed, didn’t want to blow my meter, PCB must be an inverter. Irrespective I check the voltage as indicated on your site & yes +300V DC.

    However, the drive spindle/cog that interfaces with the actual brush bar did not fit, there is an extended ‘Spigot Diameter’ on the new one that would fit into a bored hole on the brush bar end face to allow engagement of the drive. Fortunately I was able to remove the old drive belt housing assembly and fit it onto the new motor, only thing is I am now using the old drive belt as there did not appear to be much clearance to allow swapping out of the belt, didn’t want to break it trying to remove it and end up with nothing working. I did contemplate drilling a hole into the end of the brush bar so it would accept the protruding spigot, but again didn’t want to weaken the actual brush bar where the drive cog connects.

  5. Hi. Brush mechanism flashed and stopped during vacum operation. Ordered a new motor, not realising that there was also a PCB inside ….
    When new motor arrived, on inspection visible burn out on PCB. So that is now on order. How would I test the original motor to see if this is OK, which I now suspect…?
    Cheers

  6. You would continuity test it with a multimeter. However, it’s likely both have gone as one tends to take out the other very often.

  7. Midge schelin on May 6th, 2019 at 1:06 am

    There isn’t power from brush on-button to brush motor, but there is power from the on-button that powers the ball. So we have suction but no power to brush motor. Checked the motor and that’s ok.

  8. I have a dyson dc24 us model the brush stopped spinning. I cleaned it checked for clogs etc. it still wouldnt spin. Dyson told me I needed a new cleaner head assembly. I took the cleaner head completely apart. I disconnected the circuit board used a very soft brush and cleaned the board gently and all of the connecters. Then I used same brush and cleand around the motor and everywhere i could get the brush. I put it all back together and it works PERFECTLY! I hope this helps others!

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