Dyson DC07 Motor Replacement Guide

Dyson DC07 Motor Swap/Change

Remember to make sure your Dyson DC07 is unplugged from the mains before starting this job.

Replacing the motor is probably the most technical, and certainly the hardest repair to the Dyson DC07, and should only be undertaken by competent people who feel confident enough with electrical appliances to do it. This is not an amateur job and if you are not confident performing a motor swap to your Dyson DC07, please take it to a vacuum cleaner repair shop.

Before you start, here is what you will need:

  • A new motor. You can get a top quality one for £35 including fast UK delivery here: >>Dyson DC07 Motor<<
  • Two replacement filters. You can buy a dual filter kit >>HERE<<
  • Various flat blade screwdrivers (you probably have a selection of those anyway).
  • A Dyson Star T15 Torx screwdriver. Buy a good quality one >>HERE<<.
  • A big cup of tea, the wife out of the house, and an hour or two to kill.

Likely Symptoms of a Failed Dyson DC07 Motor:

  • A noticeable smell of burning or a very strong acrid smell when the Dyson is running.
  • The motor may sound noisy, laboured or be varying in speed when running.
  • The motor may make a strange popping or bubbling type of noise.
  • Smoke or sparks from motor housing area.
  • There can be a high pitched noise from the motor, which may suggest that the motor bearings are worn out.

DC07 Model Variations.

This video below was made using a base model DC07 without the brush control knob (clutch). There are some differences to the sole plate and brush-roll areas on machines fitted with a clutch (All Floors models). However, the core elements of the machine are almost the same. The replacement of a Dyson DC07 motor is somewhat similar between all variants, and shouldn’t create too much of a challenge to those with a technical inclination.

Click the “Play” triangle on the video below to see how to change the motor in your Dyson DC07:

There video makes it look a little easier than you may find it. Remember, a Dyson engineer has done this hundreds of times and you have not. In particular, you may find putting the belt back on somewhat more awkward than the video makes it look, and you should pay particular attention to where the switch wires are plugged onto, and note their locations for re-assembly. Also, you may need some pressure from behind the switch housing locating lugs with a flat blade screwdriver to get the switch housing off. The video skims over that. But overall, it is a good — albeit speeded up — representation of what it takes to do the job.

Remember to also replace both filters when you change a Dyson DC07 motor. Your new motor doesn’t like dirty filters!

If you have any comments, please feel free to add them using the comments box below.

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19 Responses to “Dyson DC07 Motor Replacement Guide”

  1. When I switch on my Dyson, nothing happens. I have checked the on/off switch which seems fine and power is getting to it. How can I tell whether or not the motor has failed? Thanks

  2. It sounds like the motor has failed. There is a workshop manual for the DC07 coming out very soon, leave a message if you want a link when it is out.

  3. Please send me the link to the DC07 workshop manual when available.
    I have just purchased a few spares (including the motor) so it will come in handy.
    Thanks
    Keith

  4. Please send me the link to the DC07 workshop manual when available.
    I have just purchased a few spares (including the motor) so it will come in handy.

    Hello Keith, it has launched already. You can find the advertisement on this page, but it is also here: Dyson DC07 Workshop Manual

  5. Hi I have stripped down my Dc07 Animal, to the motor and removed the worn Brushes ( they had chips out of the leading face ) I presumed becuase they were getting low and wobbled freely.

    I have cleaned as much graphite out of the inside as possible with a soft paint brush and installed new Brushes.

    I still have sparks for the 2 seconds that the motor runs before blowing the 13 amp Plug fuse.

    Do you think it’s more terminal or is it just graphite still around the motor wiring ?

    the spindle all seems to run freely and securely, I hope you can advise ?

    Craig

  6. Sounds like it is shorting out. I would replace the motor at this stage.

  7. Thanks Angus, I thought it might be at that stage, but nice to have it confirmed.

    Regards

    Craig

  8. hi, 2 days later i still cant get tbhe motor into the housing, any other tips beside vasalene and fairy liquid?

  9. Sounds like it is not fitted correctly and not sitting over the lip properly. Two days is quite a while.

  10. Hi Mr Black. having read the other replies I acknowledge that I’m probably going to need a new motor (ebay £20). I had all the above symptoms and changed the brushes (3.95 ebay) which was a laugh as only the brushes came…not the housings, so I hade to be ingenious with the connections. After fitting the brushes the machine ran great for about a 3o secs then slowed, made popping noises and stunk so I turned it off. Is there anything else I can change before buying a new motor.
    Where dose the 70mm thin bar go as it was found after the rebuild….typical.
    Cheers
    Mark

  11. You get what you pay for on eBay. Buyer beware!

    Most brushes are supplied without housings BTW.

    But yes, by what you have said, you need to fit a new motor. The armature burns up, so you fit new brushes that then run on a damaged armature and they last two minutes; as yours did.

    The 70mm bar… might be off your clutch cover. I’d need to see a photo really.

  12. im in the process of replacing the motor and have just hooked up the new motor to the power wires red&black and tried to test the motor by plugging it back in and pressing the brown switch, but it doesnt turn on.

    Does it have to all be set back up to power? i cant see anything else that would make it require this. Can you help?

    Also is there a set way the wires need to be connected up at the switch? im sure ive tried every combination.

    Cheers

  13. Switch wiring is in your workshop manual with photos. If that is correct, you simply need to check continuity of the main cable and at each stage down to the motor leads to find the break in supply.

    Also, depending where you got your motor may be a factor. Many of the cheap eBay ones with no TOC on the outside don’t work out of the box.

    The wires coming adrift in the motor casing as it was slid back together is another likely suspect. Better motors have longer leads to prevent this happening. Cheaper ones might take six tries.

  14. So I bought, installed a new motor in my Dyson DC-07 and it does not work, powers up no suction but then the heap filter blew out…motor reversed? Wirring colors white and black from wall, through switch and then motor. What am I doing wrong??

  15. Angus Black on May 6th, 2012 at 5:24 pm

    If you have black and white wires you are in the US I imagine? And we are talking about a 110v motor. What colours were on the wires from the motor, which colour did you put to which colour?

    However, if the HEPA blows out, the cyclone grill was not put back properly or the fixings are broken. Have you replaced the HEPA too?

  16. I am in a similar predicament: the wires of a us 110 motor is different from 220 model dc07snshown in a number of videos. I have white and black wires from the machine, but black and red posts on the new motor. Which goes to which?

  17. The red on the motor is the live (or what you guys over the pond call the ‘hot’ wire I believe).

    I recall the black is the live (hot) wire in the US.

    Accordingly, if I were doing this, I would connect black to the red on the motor and white to the black on the motor.

  18. is it possible to replace the motor bearings ? and if so how ?

  19. Nobody bothers as motors are so cheap.

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